Travel: You Got Tyrol With It

Jan 4 2009 By Gayle Ritchie

From Culture To Adventure, North Italy's A Fantastic Find

An eight-course meal and a cargo of wine were exactly what the doctor ordered after we checked in to our hotel at midnight.

We'd just arrived at the stunning mountain village of Dorf Tirol in the heart of South Tyrol - the German-speaking region of northern Italy.

Although it was late, our host was only too happy to ply us with enough food and drink to satisfy an army.

Once we'd stuffed ourselves silly, she led us out on to the veranda for another surprise - the silhouette of the limestone peaks of the Dolomites glowing purple in the night light and their shimmering reflection in the lakes below was absolutely breathtaking.

We were staying at the three-star Hotel Marini which boasts its own fab health spa, gym, gardens and outdoor pool.

The owners were friendly and helpful at every turn and showed us this was a place where people truly indulge their passions.

What makes it even more alluring is the region, which Austria handed over to Italy after the First World War, is practically undiscovered by the Brits.

The air is crisp, the light stark and the vibe decidedly alpine.

Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, pine forests, Heidi-style chalets and fairytale castles, it's hard to remember you are in Italy.

Only one in four of the population speaks Italian and most people speak German.

As a result, you'll find many menus offering sauerkraut and bockwurst instead of pizza and spaghetti.

The Tyrol is a giant adventure playground, a natural home for climbing, walking, mountain biking, paragliding and white water rafting.

We spent the first day of our break burning off the previous night's calories trekking through the picturepostcard Texelgruppe mountains. The gentle clank of bells which accompanied us as herds of goats trotted along the mountainside was quite magical.

Dozens of mountain-hut restaurants cater to walkers so you won't starve and, if you need a break from exercise, you can use the network of cable cars which operate at 1000m above sea level.

We also visited Bolzano, the capitol of South Tyrol, where we indulged in a spot of shopping and people watching from one of the main square's many swanky cafes.

A highlight was the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, which houses the world's oldest wet mummy - lovingly named Otzi the iceman.

He was discovered in 1991 and dates back to the Copper Age. Preserved in a glass chamber, he's a spooky sight but there is a less scary creation of how he would have looked back in 3300BC.

We spent the rest of our break satisfying our culture fix with trips to medieval castles, monasteries and museums.

But, of course, we devoted plenty of time to wining and dining and our favourite spot was the Pillhof wine restaurant near Bolzano.

We were genuinely sad to leave this fascinating and spectacularly beautiful region.

It's an unspoilt gem but my advice is to sample its secrets now before it is discovered by the masses.

FACTFILE

We stayed at Hotel Marini in Dorf Tirol. B&B is from 61 euros per person. Visit www.hotelmarini.it or call 00 39 0473 923 666 to book.

British Airways (www.ba.com; 0844 493 0787 ) flies Glasgow to Verona via London Gatwick from £197.70 per person return.

Low-fare bus transfers run from Innsbruck and Verona airports to Bolzano from 17 euros each way - see www.lowcostcoach.com/suedtirol.info/lowfare

Check out www.suedtirol.info, www.archaeologiemuseum.it or www.dorf-tirol.it to find out more.

Hot deals

TENERIFE from Glasgow on January 27, seven nights' half-board at three-star hotel, from £340pp.

CANARIES from Glasgow on January 31, seven nights' half-board at three-star hotel, from £295pp.

COSTA BLANCA from Glasgow on February 7, seven nights' self-catering at three-star apartments, from £230pp.

GAMBIA from Glasgow on February 17, seven nights' B&B at four-star hotel, from £485pp.

LANZAROTE from Glasgow on February 19, seven nights' self-catering at three-star apartments, from £270pp.

To book the above and more, call 0844 412 5970 or log on to www.thomascook.com EGYPT from Glasgow on January 19, seven nights' B&B at four-star hotel, from £410pp. Book the above at www.panoramaholidays.co.uk or phone 0844 879 8200.

MADEIRA from Glasgow on February 9, seven nights' B&B at four-star hotel, from £450pp. Call 0844 871 6636 or visit www.airtours.co.uk