Our Irish Fota Album

May 25 2008 By Margret Campbell

Cobh, Ireland Campbells Are Coming For A Cork-Er Of A Time In Cobh

A BIG family reunion in Ireland may be nothing out of the ordinary...but with the Campbells the emphasis is on the BIG.

Well, just how many people have "family" 17ft tall?

Since my daughter Joely's adopted giraffe Sapphire moved from Edinburgh Zoo to Fota Wildlife Park, we have become regular visitors to this part of County Cork.

Our base is Cobh (pronounced Cove) - the historic town on Great Island in Cork Harbour, the world's second-largest natural harbour after Sydney.

And it is the stunning harbour that made the town its fortune.

It was Ireland's premier port of call in the hey-day of transatlantic liners and the departure point for millions of emigrants who left the Emerald Isle hoping to strike it rich in America.

Their story is told at the town's Heritage Centre, based in the old railway station, also the home of the best lattes I have sampled outside Italy and home-baking to die for.

But without doubt the biggest draw in Cobh is its links to the Titanic.

The town, then known as Queenstown, was the great liner's last port of call before it sank in April 1912 - and where a lucky seven people disembarked.

The old wooden White Star pier, where the 113 souls who joined the ship at Cobh boarded, is still there - just - but is slowly crumbling into the sea.

Just along the seafront - and in an even worse state - is the old Cunard pier where the survivors and the victims of the Lusitania were brought after she was torpedoed by a German U-boat in 1915.

It's a shame neither of these monuments are preserved. Don't they have a National Trust in Ireland?

The town has poignant memorials to both disasters and Cobh Museum, based in a converted church, has many interesting artefacts relating to the ships.

The stories of both liners feature prominently in the Titanic Trail - a daily walking tour of Cobh set up by local historian Michael Martin.

This is a fascinating glimpse back in time as friendly and knowledgeable guides whisk you on a trip back to the past before, as ever in Ireland, you end up in the pub.

The pub in question is Jack Doyle's - named after the Cobh-born boxer and notorious drunk who became a Hollywood star and a successful singer.

The Titantic Trail's 9.50 euro (£7.50) cost includes a sample of Guinness - but, since we're in Cork, I feel it should have been the local Murphy's stout!

Joely and I were pleased to see our hotel - The Commodore - featured on the tour.

It dates from 1855 and was once THE place to stay for the first-class liner passengers before they set sail.

These days it has a hint of faded grandeur about it but you won't get a warmer welcome anywhere in Ireland.

Shell out the extra for a sea view room or, instead of watching cruise liners and fishing boats flit past the picturesque Spike Island across the harbour, you'll be contemplating a concrete car park.

Don't fall into the trap of thinking that the hotel's traditional image means traditional hearty Irish fare.

The Commodore chef likes to surprise his clientele with his menu and when we visited the a la carte specials featured ostrich and crocodile.

Joely only just resisted the temptation to order the latter and ask the waiter to "make it snappy". Well, she is only nine and easily amused!

Cobh is dominated by the stunning St Colman's Cathedral, completed in 1916 and, if you are lucky, you may even get to hear its renowned 49-bell carillon - one of the biggest in Europe.

The so-called Deck of Cards - a street of houses built on an impossibly steep slope - makes a quaint picture.

But not everything about our visit is about history. Our biggest attraction is undoubtedly Fota Wildlife Park.

Packed into its 70 acres are cheetahs, bison, monkeys, zebras, lemurs, llamas, tapirs and many more species including, of course, Sapphire and her 12 giraffe pals.

Most of the animals are free-roaming or out in open paddocks so you really have the chance to see them up close.

Joely and I managed to get REALLY close to some of the residents.

Head warden Willie Duffy took us on a behind-the-scenes tour which included hand-feeding Joely's adopted pet Sapphire and her calf Clona. But the biggest surprise came when Willie took us to see the cheetahs being fed - then said we'd be paying them a visit.

Joely marched confidently into the enclosure with Willie but I must admit I was a bit more apprehensive having just watched five-year-old Impie and Zulu tear their dinner - a couple of chickens - to pieces.

But I needn't have worried. Willie had hand-reared them from birth and they were happy to sit and let us pet them, purring away just like our ginger moggie Toby back home.

This part of east Cork is an ideal base for exploring the city itself and handily placed for other must-see attractions, including Blarney Castle, home of the famous stone, and the Jameson distillery tour at Midleton.

MAILFILE

Commodore hotel: www.commodorehotel.ie

Fota Wildlife Park: www.fotawildlife.ie

Ryanair have daily flights from Prestwick to Cork from as little as 1p, depending when you want to travel.

LATE DEALS

GRAN CANARIA from Glasgow on June 23. Seven nights s/c flats, £255pp.

To book: www.flyglobespan.com or 08712 710 415.

GRAN CANARIAfrom Edinburgh on June 9. Seven nights s/c in 3-star Balcon Del Mar, from £294pp.

CYPRUS From Edinburgh on June 10. Seven nights in 3-star Hotel In Albir, £222pp.

www.airtours.co.uk or phone 0871 664 7625.

RHODESfrom Glasgow on June 11. Seven nights B&B in 3-star Sunshine Hotel, Lardos, from £264pp.

To book: www.manos.co.uk or 08707 530 530.

BENIDORMfrom Prestwick on May 30. Seven nights h/b in 3-star, £279pp.

COSTA BRAVAfrom Prestwick on June 5. Seven nights in 3-star, £259.

www.holidayandflightcentre.com or call 0870 752 0434.